Saturday, April 4, 2009

already - cuz i can - patterning for the plus size performer


this process of plus size pattern drafting has been rattling around in my brain for QUITE a while. my mother is a big, beautiful lady, and many a performer you come across is also, to quote the original ricky lake tracey turnblad, pleasantly plump or chunky. how do we make these women look there best? 
you cant use the standard flat patterning for fashion design cause the proportion gets all screwy and terrible. you end up with a dart intake of like 5 inches with a length of like 2 inches. hmm... those measurements sounds awfully familiar, but thats for the other blog. and while i think draping is the most tried and true method, what happens when you don't have the time or resources? are there no drafting systems for plus size fashions? i had a brief discussion with a woman presenting pattern drafting software at USITT, hers and her companys name escapes me, but she shared with me that the way her patterns are perfected is by relying not on proportion, but on exact measurements. hmm... i've never really tried drafting from scratch like that before, but i feel that in that exploration lies a great discovery.. hehe. 
this bodice/jacket from CCM's production of Barber of Seville was draped and flat patterned to hell, and fit very well in the end i think. thank goodness for dress forms and women who dont mine a little steel boning ;-) thats what she said. 

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