Friday, October 30, 2009

Pattern Magic! (click to buy)


So my coworker received these books from a sister who found them at a Japanese book store in San Francisco. Since then they have made fun pattern chit chat but nothing more. I finally decided to try my hand at one and boy was it fun! There are sooo many cool drafts to choose from, but I eventually settled on the one that you see here. Its a collared bodice with a neck tie cut in one. Awesome, huh? The book utilizes flat patterning techniques to achieve all its whacky designs which i love. as i didn't learn flat patterning in school, im fascinated by those who can use it exclusively to create things that i almost always imagine myself draping. As the book is almost ENTIRELY in japanese, and i am but a silly english speaking american i had to go at it with only my knowledge of patternmaking/draping and my ability to read diagrams. i think the effect was definitely nicely achieved. i used a different collar pattern than the one in the book as it is one that i find to be particularly attractive (from masaki kawashima's funamentals of men's fashion design). also of note, if anyone is interested in purchasing these books (there are two, i used the second one for this pattern), is that the patterns shown in the book do not always include facings or non symmetrical pieces. in this blouse for example, the left front bodice pattern is very different from the right as it does not include the tie, and has to be lengthened toward center front to be hidden beneath the tie. they also do not show the facing piece that is needed for the tie. i discovered these things as i actually went to sew the garment together, not necessarily as i made the pieces. anyway! it was a very fun project, and i think a graduate student may use the pattern to actually make herself this blouse which would be very exciting! below are the pages included in the book, and some photos of my patterns (without facings and asymmetries) and my finished mock up. enjoy!

Friday, October 23, 2009

Free Dress Forms!

So this is a really awesome program/opportunity for educators/schools out there!
PGM is a smaller, less well known dress form company. I bought my dress form from them a few years ago on Ebay actually for way cheap and I have been super satisfied with it ever since. They have since been brought to a lot of folks attention because they are used at LA's Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, home of Project Runway.
They offer this thing called the Education Sponsorship Program, and listen up honies, cause it's not just for Fashion Design Programs! College Conservatory of Music just received these two wonderful, brand new, professional quality, collapsible dress forms for only the cost of shipping and handling! Around $45 dollars a piece. They also offer student discounts, and a free dress form program for outstanding recent graduates. Check it out ya'll!

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Sleeve Drafting




So, I have a girlfriend who I keep in touch with and gab about professional patternmaking things, as that is what we both are - professional pattern makers. hehe. I was going through some things to forward to her in an email, and decided that this would be a cool one to include on ye olde blogge. This is a sleeve pattern that I came across this summer at the Santa Fe Opera. Apparantly, its been around and a lot of people know about it, well, a lot of New York patternmakers. But it was news to me. Its a very fitted two piece sleeve with a built in gusset. My draper called it a tah-dah sleeve, cause that's the noise you should make when you're able to lift your arms up over your head. Its got a funky piece that can either be cut in one with the top sleeve, or cut as a third piece. The most I can guess, is that the reason one would cut it in three pieces, is so that with her arms at her side, it would have the same seams as a regular, suit type two piece sleeve. Anyone have any other ideas? Ever seen this/used it? It worked out nicely on a variety of different costumes and sizes. Oh, and sorry that the bottom of the over sleeve got cut off, but, it didnt all fit in my scanner. I figure that if you REALLY want to blow this up (each square equals one inch), you can compare the over arm with the underarm and make it work. ha!